Tuesday, 28 March 2017

The Costume Archives #1 - Victoriana Peplum Jackets

Victorian peplum jackets by karen vallerius



Linen peplum jacket upcycled by Karen Vallerius

The Costume Archives


Any fellow stitch bloggers will no doubt find themselves with literally thousands of photos of their projects on laptops and tablets, saved on various drives and cloud storage facilities.  I have been having a major clear up of all my photos and decided to create a series of archives focusing on various garments to showcase some of my upcycling pedigree!

Victorian Inspired Peplum Jackets


Denim peplum jacket upcycled by Karen Vallerius

Et voila!  About 18 months ago I created several Victorian inspired peplum jackets.  At first I tried to inset the peplum panels into cuts into the jacket but found that was very tricky to do.  So I proceeded to cut the jackets at the waistline - maybe adding an insert of fabric as in the black denim jacket above - then constructing the peplum before stitching it back onto the jacket.

Half Belts to Improve Fit & Flare


Linen peplum jacket upcycled by Karen Vallerius

As I was aiming for a Victorian inspired silhouette, I stitched half belts onto the back so that the jacket could be tied to adjust the fit.  Also these give a more Victorian / Steampunk vibe to the garment and add some colour.

Skirt into Peplum Refashion


Victoriana peplum jacket upcycled by Karen Vallerius

For the most part, I used pieces cut from skirts to create the peplum panels.  Either plain when inserting the panels into a patterned jacket (as for this striped jacket above), or patterned when I was refashioning a plain jacket.

Victoriana two piece upcycled by Karen Vallerius

This grey and red striped jacket and matching Victorian style skirt was made from a 1980s two piece.  I added faux braiding details to the front to give the jacket some extra style.  Below a fashion illustration from a Victorian fashion journal which provided inspiration.




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Monday, 20 March 2017

Summer Blues 80s Tie Top

summer blues 80s tie top by karen vallerius


This year I really MUST stitch my way through at least some of the 12 crates of vintage textiles in my sewing room!  I have already made a start on the vintage embroidered linens (here in my earlier post), and now it is time to turn to the vintage cottons.


I have used this vintage 1984 sewing pattern - Style 4303 - as a basis for self drafted patterns before. This time however I used the pattern "as is" and stitched view 3, top left.  I used some of my blue toned vintage cottons for this:

80s tie top by Karen Vallerius

- a navy paisley cotton reworked from a vintage 60s day dress;
- a bright madras influenced cotton check from an 80s mod style man's shirt; and
- a gorgeous piece of unused vintage 70s dress cotton in teal and biscuit

80s tie top by Karen Vallerius

I love this boxy 80s shape, you can see it is cut without darts for shaping but the tie waist enables it to be adjusted to fit.  Just perfect with summer jeans or crops.

80s tie top by Karen Vallerius


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Tuesday, 14 March 2017

Pretty Patchworks Vintage Embroidered Linens

vintage linen patchwork by karen vallerius
vintage sewing room by karen vallerius

First, a confession .... not only do I have a huge Victorian housemaid's cabinet full of crafting & sewing supplies in my sewing room ....
vintage sewing room by karen vallerius
... but I also have 12 crates of vintage textiles stored for future projects shown above!

Now, if you look at the 3rd shelf down and the second of the storage boxes in the stack of three, well that is the one containing vintage linen embroidered and lace edged tablecloths, tray cloths and various little doiley mats.  I have finally started to use some of these textiles and have been making some patchwork panels to stitch into summer camisoles.


vintage linen patchwork by karen vallerius

vintage linen patchwork by karen vallerius

The camisoles are currently being "assembled" - photos coming soon.

Karen x
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